Synopsis: Transferring into a brand new home with a two-car storage, John Hartman knew he needed to switch the standard doorways with swing-out carriage doorways. He designed doorways with massive home windows, created from a sandwich of plywood and MDO. A framework product of stable wooden offers the looks of a frame-and-panel door.
My spouse and I lately spent a 12 months searching for our new house within the Pioneer Valley space of central Massachusetts. One of many gadgets on our want record was a storage for my new woodshop. Driving to house-hunting appointments, we seen that a number of of the older garages nonetheless had their authentic swing-out carriage doorways, and we thought they seemed much better than fashionable overhead doorways. We knew that if we discovered a home with an appropriate storage, we might exchange the ever-present roll-up doorways with conventional swing-outs. We discovered simply such a spot, and once we moved into our new house, I received began planning the transformation of the two-car storage into my woodshop. As soon as I had determined the software, electrical, and dust-collection layouts, I turned my consideration to the design of the entrance facade and the brand new doorways.
The constructing had an entry door on the proper and a 16-ft.-wide overhead storage door on the left. I made a decision to divide the lengthy doorway in half with a pillar, creating openings for 2 pairs of carriage doorways. I solely actually wanted one set, and I might have closed in half of the opening with a wall, however I needed the constructing to seem like a storage from the road.
The doorways are a sandwich
I needed to maximise pure gentle within the store, so I designed the doorways with massive home windows. I discovered six-light basement sash that have been inventory gadgets and would offer loads of gentle. I thought-about making the home windows myself however selected to not as I used to be searching for methods to simplify the construct.
To make the doorways as robust, secure, and weatherproof as attainable, I constructed them with a hybrid construction: a stout, mortise-and-tenoned solid-wood body skinned with plywood. I skinned the outer face of the body with 1⁄2-in. medium density overlay (MDO), which has an exterior-rated plywood core coated on either side with a skinny veneer of easy, resin-impregnated paper. MDO, which is used for concrete varieties and out of doors indicators, is rated extremely for exterior use and holds paint extraordinarily effectively.
To connect the MDO sheet to the poplar body, I used polyurethane building adhesive and galvanized end nails. I roughed out the opening for the window with a handheld jigsaw and trimmed it flush to the body with a router. I lower foam insulation board to suit snugly within the decrease part of the body, ensuring to orient the foil aspect towards the inside face of the door.
Wanting to reduce the general thickness and weight of the doorways, I skinned the within face with 1⁄4-in. birch plywood, gluing it on with Titebond III.
Heavy-duty laminated door
Secure, robust, and weatherproof, the door has a stout, mortise-and-tenoned, solid-wood body at its core. Sheet items are glued to each faces of the body with building adhesive and galvanized end nails. A framework of ornamental trim glued and pinned to the outside pores and skin imitates frame-and-panel building.
Sprucing up the door slab
I added a framework of trim to the skin of my fashionable door to provide the plain slab the looks of a standard frame-and-panel door. I made the trim of cedar for its lightness and decay resistance. To chop prices, I used cedar decking from a giant field retailer and milled it down. Western pink cedar, even of this poor grade, is secure and holds paint effectively.
Earlier than attaching the trim to the outer face of the door, I put in the decrease drip cap, gluing its tongue right into a groove within the MDO. I glued up the trim stiles and rails on a flat floor utilizing Titebond III and #10 biscuits, waited for the glue to treatment, after which connected them to the door, once more utilizing polyurethane building adhesive and galvanized end nails. I completed the trim by becoming and attaching the mid-stiles.
Subsequent I made the body that the basement window matches into. I joined the body with #0 biscuits and drilled holes for the pocket screws that might connect the body to the door.
Portray got here subsequent. I stuffed all of the nail holes, painted any knots with Zinsser BIN stain sealer, and utilized paintable caulk to all the within corners. I used an oil-based primer on all surfaces. When the primer dried, I connected the window frames with pocket screws. I top-coated the outside surfaces and edges of the doorways with a high-quality exterior latex paint, leaving the inside of the door to be top-coated after set up.
Construct and set up the jambs
I began work on the door openings by attaching a pressure-treated 2×8 sub sill to the entrance fringe of the ground slab with Tapcon screws. The slab had a slight bevel on the edge, so I used shims to stage the sill. I constructed the middle column with 2×6 studs confronted with 1⁄2-in. OSB. I used ZIP flashing tape to kind the sill pans, taping the highest of the sub sill, over its entrance edge, and partway up the studs. I pressed the tape down firmly with a J-roller.
I made each jambs the identical dimension, measuring each tough openings and utilizing the smaller dimensions. I subtracted ½ in. from the tough opening width and three⁄8 in. from the peak to find out the skin dimension of the jambs. My tough openings weren’t too badly out of sq.; if yours are, it’s possible you’ll have to make the jambs a bit of smaller.
FWW illustrator John Hartman attracts (and builds) furnishings in West Springfield, Mass.
Photographs: Jonathan Binzen; drawings: John Hartman
From Positive Woodworking #300
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